![]() Although if I'd masked it up, then I could have brushed a bit of lacquer between the bead and the glass to seal that off as well, but I'm too lazy. It saved me a lot of masking or cutting in rather than lacquering it all after they'd been glazed. Make sure you position the glass panes well because the glazing tape sticks like. If youre going for 2mm, then your window frames need to be very clean and sound before sticking it in. There might be a tiny amount of water that gets between the glazing bead and the glass, but it won't get far and the bead has been lacquered all around to protect it anyway. I always use 2mm nowadays, but I have used 3mm and 4mm in the past with good results. If you use just the right amount of silicone, then there's very little overspill, and what there is can be cleaned up with a razor blade scraper when the silicone is dry. Then I touched over the putty with lacquer, and lacquered the joint between the glazing bead and the door frame to seal it. With the doors I just built, I lacquered everything (including the timber glazing bead, all around), then siliconed in the rebate, pushed the glass in, siliconed around the edges, pushed the glazing bead into the silicone and nailed it off, and then puttied the nails. I've done that before and it works a treat. Still trying to decide whether you should use caulking or putty? The following pros and cons summarize each product’s strengths and weaknesses.They all sound like good methods, and the dish washing liquid, sprayed on, is a good tip. Sealing seams and gaps, especially against water Here’s a quick look at the differences between caulk and putty products: In short, caulk is ideal for sealing out water and joining components over large surface areas. Use caulk to even out transitions between countertops and backsplashes.
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